Along the lines of "The avalanche has started; it is now too late for the pebbles to vote":

https://whatthefuckjusthappenedtoday.com/


Along the lines of "Everything is going to be just fine":

https://www.cia.gov/library/readingroom/collection/crest-25-year-program-archive


Along the lines of "I need grounding":

https://nist.time.gov/
Those of you who follow this blog may wonder "Why all the recipes lately?".

The answer is far more silly than you'd expect; I was notified by IT at
work that they were taking down the "personal interest" pages on the
outward-facing web site, and emailed me the archive of my pages- most
of which were recipes.

What's the harm in recipes?

The answer (and I am NOT making this up! Nobody can make stuff this good up...):

"We are afraid someone might burn their mouth."

Sic transit...

- Bill
This is a 1 hour black bean soup, best made with a blender and a pressure cooker.

(note: if you put in less water, you get bean dip instead. Which is also good.)

Expected time to prepare - 3 hours without a pressure cooker, 1 hour with. Note- you'll need a blender.

Scoville rating: 100 (approximate)

CAUTION: As prepared in this recipe, this Voodoo Black Bean Soup is quite spicy (not evilly spicy, just quite)... you're hereby warned.

CAUTION: if you use a pressure cooker, there are explosion hazards while cooking black bean soup. Fill the pressure cooker no more than 2/3 full, and make sure the pressure relief valve is unobstructed. WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES when cooking this way!

You have been warned...
Ingredients for 8 servings as a starter soup

1 bag (1 lb, about .5 kg) dried black beans
3 cups (about 1 liter) cold water
one very large onion (or 2 big ones), slivered
one very large yam (or 2 medium size ones), cubed to the size of a fingernail
one red pepper, slivered
one green pepper, likewise slivered
four cloves garlic, or a big spoonful of garlic powder
a shot of olive oil
a bit of sea salt
cajun spices, if you like them.
sour cream
shredded cheese (pepper jack is good)

How to make it:

Put the cold water and the beans into the pressure cooker, and put in a shot of olive oil. Cook at maximum heat until the safety valve starts to dance, then reduce heat to hold at "barely dancing" pressure for 20 minutes. (if no pressure cooker, boil for 2-3 hours, adding water to make up for losses). The beans are cooked enough when you can crush them easily between finger and thumb.

After 20 minutes, remove the pressure cooker from the heat, and run cold water over the top till the
pressure valve releases, then open the pressure cooker. Watch out, the stuff inside may still be superheated, be careful.

Get out the blender. Spoon about 2/3 of the beans into the blender container, and add enough of the hot water to half fill. Blend till it's smooth and creamy (will take a few minutes). Beware splashes.

Put the blended beans back in.

Add the slivered onions and cubed yams.

Close the pressure cooker and put the pressure cooker back on the heat, cook 10 minutes at 15 PSI (40 minutes if not on pressure). Again, don't count time coming up to pressure, keep the control valve barely dancing.

Turn off the heat, relieve pressure.

Add the cajun spices, slivered red and green peppers and the garlic (mashed).

Simmer 5 minutes (no need for pressure), salt to taste.

Serve with sour cream and shredded pepper jack cheese.

Amazingly satisfying... spicy but with a very nice body and good nutritional values.
This vindaloo fools even the carnisaurs^H^H^H^H^Hvores. Expected time to prepare - 20 minutes work, then 30 minutes cook.

Scoville rating: roughly 1500 Scoville

CAUTION: VINDALOO is a VERY spicy food. If you are unfamiliar with extreme cooking, you should consider having vindaloo prepared by an expert before attempting it on your own.

CAUTION: VINDALOO SPICES are extremely corrosive and may cause you extreme distress should you get them into an eye or other bodily orfice undiluted. For this reason WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES and WASH HANDS CAREFULLY AFTER HANDLING SPICES.

WARNING: VINDALOO may cause intestinal distress if eaten without chemical inerting absorbents such as rice, pasta, etc. You have been warned...

Ingredients for 8 servings as a main dish
It is recommended that you prepare rice as a side dish / fire extinguisher!

one bag "Green Giant Harvest Burgers For Recipes" textured soy protein
one jar (about 8 ounces) Patak's Vindaloo Paste
two big onions, slivered to 3 cm x .5 cm, about 250 mL (1.5 inches x 1/4 inch, about one cup)
four red potatoes, coarsely cubed (about the size of the first joint of your thumb)
two big cans of crushed tomatoes (two of the roughly-700-mL size)
a shot of olive oil
a bit of sea salt
a double bit of sulphurred molasses (*secret ingredient*)
whatever water is needed during boiling...

How to make it:

Heat the olive oil to frying temps, and fry the onions to golden, then...

Add the cans of crushed tomatoes...

Allow to reach a boil, add the potatoes and the textured soy...

Allow to regain boil, add the vindaloo paste.

Simmer till the potatoes are cooked through and the sauce is as you desire it. You will probably need to add some water to keep it from overthickening. This usually takes about half an hour.

Add salt to taste; molasses to taste; I've had good luck with only a tiny bit of salt and about 1/10 the vindaloo-paste jar worth of molasses.
This is a moderately authentic spicy HOT sesame seed beef

Expected time to prepare - 30 minutes prep time, then 5 minutes stirfry.

Scoville rating: 10,000 - 30,000 (approximate)

Credits: I stole this recipe from Ed Falk, who stole it from someone else. I've changed a few things (no oyster sauce, a little more sugar, different veggies) but that's the way good cooking goes.

CAUTION: The hot bean paste and stir-frying can burn you, both chemically and thermally. BE CAREFUL and WEAR SAFETY GLASSES.

CAUTION: The recommended types and amounts of the ingredients below may cause you extreme distress should you get them into an eye or other bodily orfice undiluted. For this reason WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES and WASH HANDS CAREFULLY AFTER HANDLING THESE MATERIALS!!!

You have been warned...
Ingredients for about 4 servings of Hot Sesame Seed Beef
Start by making the marinate:

2 tablespoons rice wine
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 teaspoon baking powder
2 1/2 tablespoons sesame oil
2 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce

Mix the marinate up well; mixing it in a 3-quart bowl will let you marinate the beef in the same bowl.
Slice the beef

1 lb (1/2 kg) really good beef; kabobbed is good
a sharp knife and a cutting board

Get yourself a pound of really good beef; kabobs is fine (and cheaper) for the same quality beef.

Slice the beef across the grain; you are shooting for pieces that are about 1/8" (2 to 3 mm) thick, and 1/2 or so inch wide (1 to 2 cm wide), by a couple inches (4 to 6 cm) long.

Put the sliced beef into the marinate as you slice it; you want the marinate to soak in.

Leave the beef in the marinate as you prepare the stirfry veggies. 10 minutes is enough, 20 minutes is better.
The Veggies
Get yourself a couple cups worth of any/all of the following; they all work, you can mix to taste or favor.

1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger <-- YOU NEED TO GET THIS
broccoli - cut the stems to make bite-size florets
carrots - clean, and slice-cut at an angle
bok-choy - tear to bite-sized pieces
snowpea pods - clean, use as is
scallions - clean and chop
whatever else looks good at the market. If you like it, you'll like it.

Have these veggies EXCEPT for the ginger ready to dump in last. The ginger goes in _first_, before the beef, so don't mix the ginger in. You want about two cups or so of chopped veggies, to go with the beef
Make The Magic Sauce
You need to get this at the market too:

2 tablespoons sesame seeds
1 tablespoon "Hot Bean Paste" (may be labeled "chili pepper bean paste"). You can get it at chinese markets. This is the HOT stuff, be careful how you handle it. If you want a milder dish, put in less.
3 tablespoons hoisin sauce (get it next to the hot bean paste; this is really mild sweetish sauce.

Put these all together in a small bowl, and have ready for adding after you finish the stirfry.
The Stir Fry Part

Get out a wok. Put about 2 to 4 teaspoons of peanut oil in it; vary to taste. Turn the heat up high. When a bit of ginger dances around or bubbles madly when you toss it in, it's hot enough to fry. Toss in the ginger, and let the ginger brown for just a bit.

Keep the heat all the way up, and add about 1/4 the beef. Stir-fry it, meaning to stir it madly around while swearing in an exotic foreign language. When the beef looks almost but not quite cooked, scoop it out with a fork or strainer, allow whatever oil wants to drip to drip, and put the cooked beef to the side. Let the oil heat up again (almost to the smoke point) and repeat for the rest of the beef, in 1/4 lb batches (the idea here is to do small batches so the oil doesn't get too cold.)

When the beef is cooked, put ALL the beef back into the wok, dump the veggies in, and stir it all around for a minute or two at high heat. This warms the veggies but doesn't wilt them.

If things look too oily, pour off any excess oil NOW. You probably won't need to do this unless you used a lot of oil in the stirfry.

Turn off the heat, and add the Magic Sauce. Stir well, so everything gets coated (the little oil that's left helps the magic sauce to flow out on everything.)

You're done.

Enjoy. It's good for you. :)
Spicy HOT Scotch Bonnet Hot Pepper Sauce

Expected time to prepare - 10 minutes prep time, then 60 minutes reflux time.

Scoville rating: 100,000 (approximate)

CAUTION: As prepared in this recipe, this Sauce is is extremely spicy (and kinda scarey to look at, too! ). As with any extreme cooking, you should consider having it prepared by an expert before attempting it on your own.

CAUTION: The recommended types and amounts of the ingredients below may cause you extreme distress should you get them into an eye or other bodily orfice undiluted. For this reason WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES and WASH HANDS CAREFULLY AFTER HANDLING THESE MATERIALS!!!

You have been warned...
Ingredients for about 1/2 liter of extremely spicy sauce

2 cups scotch bonnet peppers (chopped coarse). DANGER! THESE ARE REALLY REALLY SPICY!!!
about 1/2 cup singlemalt scotch
about 1/2 cup molasses
a Nalgene heavy-duty bottle to keep this in. Don't use a thin-walled or crappy bottle- you'll find that it gets eaten thru.

How to make it: part 1- the chopping

PUT ON YOUR SAFETY GLASSES AND FULL-FACE SHIELD! I'M NOT KIDDING!!! THIS STUFF WILL HURT WORSE THAN M.A.C.E. IF YOU GET IT IN AN EYE!!!

Do this all outdoors... it's safer.

Chop the scotch bonnet peppers coarsely... that is, into pieces the size of a fingernail. Remove seeds from inside (and sow them early next spring to grow your own scotch bonnet peppers).

Cover the peppers with barely enough 50/50 mixture of scotch and molasses to cover.

Put the mixture into a blender or other instrument of fine maceration, and puree for at least five minutes .

Allow to sit for a few minutes while the bubbles disperse.


Part 2: - The Refluxing

Do this if you want a MILDER version of the sauce. Capsaicin is slightly heat-sensitive and doing this will make the sauce less hot, but more flavorful. Take your choice- it's your own funeral, buddy.

OUTSIDE, over a portable cooker (camping stove, etc), build the following stack: a large stockpot (at least 8 quart, if not more), with the peppers-and-scotch-and-molasses in it. Then put a wok over the stockpot (concave side up) and fill the wok halfway up with ice cubes.

The idea here is that even when the scotch boils, the alcohol and capcaicin will be condensed out on the bottom of the ice-filled wok, and drip back into the mix. Thus, the alcohol effectively stays in the sauce and extracts the capcaicin efficiently from the peppers. Normally capcaicin doesn't dissolve in water; this refluxing in boiling and recondensing alcohol is much more effective at extracting these flavors.

Once you have the stack built and the ice in place, light the campstove and allow the pepper sauce to boil. Keep the wok half-full of ice (drain meltwater as needed) to keep condensing the vapors and force them to remain in the sauce. Keep this up for half an hour of moderate boiling in the sauce (yes, it's OK to peek to give it a stir and see how it's doing- but be careful! It's incredibly spicy in there!)

After half an hour, allow to cool (keep the ice-filled wok on top), and pour into a carefully labelled, clean lab-grade polyethylene bottle (NALGENE makes a good one, proof against strong acids and solvents. Just what you need here, eh? :) )

You're done.
Enjoy. Use *sparingly* till you understand just how potent a spicy hot sauce this is. (the refluxed version is milder and more flavorful than the straight-up vesion)

Yummmmy!
Vegetarian Spicy Alien Hatching Calzone

Expected time to prepare - 10 minutes dough prep time, then 60 minutes yeast rise time, then 10 minutes final prep time and 20 minutes bake.

Scoville rating: 1100 (approximate)

CAUTION: As prepared in this recipe, this Spicy Alien Hatching Calzone is extremely spicy (and kinda scarey to look at, too! ). As with any extreme cooking, you should consider having it prepared by an expert before attempting it on your own.

CAUTION: The recommended types and amounts of hot sauces and spices below may cause you extreme distress should you get them into an eye or other bodily orfice undiluted. For this reason WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES and WASH HANDS CAREFULLY AFTER HANDLING SPICES.

You have been warned...
Ingredients for 6 servings as a main dish

3 cups (750 ml) flour
one cup (250 ml) hot water (hot but not scalding to the touch)
one packet bread yeast
one half cup (125 ml) nonfat dry milk
one tablespoon (5 ml) sugar
one chicken egg (optional)

one bud of garlic (not a clove, a bud. One bud contains about twenty cloves).
one big onion, slivered to 3 cm x .5 cm, about 250 mL (1.5 inches x 1/4 inch, about one cup)
one green pepper, likewise slivered, 250 ml ( about one cup)
sliced tomatoes, likewise slivered, 250 ml ( about one cup)
one cup (250 ml) of tomato sauce, either plain or 'pizza sauce'
two cups (500 ml) of shredded mozzarella cheese
one teaspoon (3 ml or so) of Inner Beauty Real Hot Sauce (DANGEROUS STUFF!!!)
a shot of olive oil
a bit of sea salt

How to make it: part 1- the dough

Mix the sugar into the hot water. Add the yeast, stir.

Mix the nonfat dry milk into the flour. [using a mixmaster is a good idea for this part]

[optional - add the egg to the flour/dry milk. Stir well]

add the yeast-plus-water-plus-sugar to the flour/dry milk. Mix only enough to form a dough, not more (to avoid shearing the yeast to death)

Cover the mixture and place in a warm dark place. Covering the mixing bowl with saran and floating it around in a hottub works great. Leave the jets off, though.

You now have classic bread dough. Let it rise for an hour and mix it again. Put it back in the warm place to allow the dough to relax and proceed with the following:

Part 2: - the fillings

Peel all the garlic. All of it. Yes, it's a lot of garlic. Bask in the fragrance. Revel in it! Good stuff, eh?

Slice the garlic thinly.

Heat the olive oil to frying temps, and fry the onions mixed with half of the garlic slices to golden, then...

Turn the oven on to 350F.

Sliver the green pepper.

Slice the tomatoes about 3/16 (5mm) thick.

Grate the mozzarella cheese, if you didn't get it pre-grated.

Open the can(s) of tomato sauce. For every 250 ml (8 oz) of sauce, add one teaspoon of "Inner Beauty Real Hot Sauce" or equivalent; mix it in well. Be very careful of this stuff, it's HOT (about 100,000 scoville units). Whatever you do, don't lick the spoon unless you are into self-destruction.

Put a tablespoon of olive oil on a baking sheet with a raised rim. Spread the olive oil around on the sheet.

Take out the dough. It should have risen somewhat again. Note- it'll have "relaxed", which means that it will be pliable and easy to press out. BUT- after a very few bends, it will stiffen up again. That's the way bread dough is. So, minimize your poking and flexing of the dough, to make it easy for you to flatten the dough onto the baking sheet.

Oil your hands with olive oil.

In one fell swoop, scoop the entire wad of sticky puffy dough out of the mixing bowl and onto the baking sheet.

Press the dough out to cover the entire baking sheet, right up to the rim. The olive oil allows the dough to slide pretty easily around, and hopefully not stick to your hands either.

Now you've got a baking-sheet-sized slab o' dough. Sprinkle the peppers, then the sliced tomatoes, then the fried onions, then the remaining sliced garlic, then the cheese and lastly the spiced-up tomato sauce in a stripe down the middle of the long axis of the dough slab. The stripe should be about 1/3 as wide as the dough slab. You can use a fork to smooth down the tomato sauce.

Now, fold each side of unoccupied dough over the veggies; pinch the dough together to make a seam down the middle of the slab. Sometimes this goes easier with two people- one doing the folding and the other doing the pinching.

Pinch/fold the ends over as well.

Put it in the oven until golden brown (15 minutes to start, then you'll just have to wing it).

While it's cooking, the pinched-together topseam will usually split, giving a look rather like the "Alien Egg" in the movie ALIEN. Don't be afraid, it's supposed to do that. On the other hand, don't bend over and put your face close to it, either. :-)

Remove from oven and allow to set for about 5 minutes before slicing. Use a bread knife or a serrated knife for best results.

This is really yummy.
[ nota bene: I wrote this back in '85 or so, and only found
a copy on the Internet in '98. I've updated it but
amazingly it's still pretty accurate. It's also proof
that you should watch what you write- it _will_ come back
to haunt you.
-Bill Yerazunis, 8-April-1998 ]


There's a book out ("Bicycle Wheels", by Jobst Brandt) that
contains both a finite-element analysis of bicycle wheels and some very
solid advice on how to tune and true (and build) your own wheels.


Advice I can offer:

1) Spokes should be tight enough so that, when plucked, they emit a
musical note (not a buzz) somewhere below (C above middle-C).
Some variation (to pull the rim/tube/tire into concentricity) is
inevitable, but a spoke that won't pluck (just buzzes) is almost always
too loose, and one that's too shrill is too tight.

When truing a wheel, "pluck" the spokes that you are considering
tightening/loosening, plus one extra spoke in either direction.
Select the spokes you actually adjust to try to get all spokes
into the low-note area of tension/tone.

2) Invest $40 or so in the machinist's tool called a "Test Indicator".
This is a nifty little jeweled instrument that measures position/motion
between two very nearby objects with great accuracy. Mine is a Fowler,
cost $37, has two jewels, and can repeatedly measure motion of .0005 inch
(yes, one half of one thousandth of an inch, or .0127 mm for our metric
friends). The hitch is that it has a max range of only .060 (+- .030 inch)

To use the test indicator- clamp the indicator's mounting bar to a
convenient place on the bicycle (the brake post is a good place) and
flex it around till the tip bears against the rim and the needle
indicates approximately center-scale. You will have to move the
indicator between the radial and lateral truing steps (see below).

2A) There's another kind of indicator called a "dial indicator" that
measures to within a few thousandths, over a distance of about one inch.
Dial indicators are a little more expensive, but you may want to
get one of those instead.

3) When truing a wheel, first true it radially- that is, get the rim-to-
center distance to be constant (or near constant). You want this accurate
to within about .020 (+- .010) inch. You can do this with the tire
on, off, or just deflated.

When radially truing the front wheel (no dish offset) count turns and
always put the same number of turns (tighter or looser) on a PAIR of
ADJACENT spokes (one will go to the left hub disc, the other goes to the
right hub disc). Thus, the radial truing will not greatly disturb
whatever lateral (L/R) true remains in your wheel.

Try not to turn any given spoke pair more than two full turns before
having checked every other spoke pair on the wheel. The typical
"unit" of adjustment during radial truing is one full turn on
a pair of adjacent spokes.

Tighten up any spoke that's actively loose to the "barely tight" state.
Likewise, loosen any spoke that's so tight it sounds shrill when you
pluck it. This will untrue the wheel somewhat but wheel truing is
iterative and the problem will be fixed later.

4) "Relieve" the wheel by grabbing adjacent pairs of spokes on the SAME
side and squeezing them together with the hand. Do this with every
pair of adjacent spokes, on both sides of the wheel. The idea is to firmly
seat the spoke against the hub and against the rim, stretching the spoke
just a bit and compressing out all of the play that burrs on the drilled
holes, etc. will cause in a few miles of riding.

5) Repeat step 3 (radial truing)

6) Relieve the wheel again. Check radial trueness. It should be
essentially unchanged. Continue to check/adjust/relieve until the
wheel remains radially true despite

7) Remount the test indicator so it indicates lateral (left-to-right)
imperfection. Also mount and inflate the tire to operational pressure.

8) True the wheel laterally. Again, make adjustments only on adjacent
pairs of spokes, and count/balance turns, but

I) The typical adjustment during lateral truing is about
1/4 turn. Don't turn a spoke pair more than 1/2 turn
before checking every other spoke pair on the wheel.

II) for FRONT wheels, every quarter turn of a spoke
tighter means ONE of the two adjacent spokes (which
go to the other side of the hub) must get one quarter
turn looser. (or you can split it- BOTH adjacent
spokes get 1/8 turn looser).

III) for REAR wheels, you have to compensate for the "dish"
(the space where the freewheel goes) if it's a derailleur
rear hub. This compensation is typically 2:1 ::

Each turn of a FREEWHEEL-side spoke must be
compensated by one HALF of a turn of an adjacent
spoke on the non-freewheel side.

IV) You can "cheat" 1/8-turn adjustments and not compensate
them- just don't do it more than once on any spoke on any
adjust/relieve/test iteration.

9) "Relieve" the wheel again

10) Test and retrue lateral.

12) Keep at lateral/relieve/test until the wheel is laterally true
within .010 (+- .005), as measured on the rim. This makes it easy
to adjust your brake pads for maximum effectiveness without rubbing.

13) Just for luck, recheck radial trueness. It should be fine.


I've trued my wheels this way for a few years now. The first time you
true them this way, it'll take a while, because all of the unbalanced
forces have to be adjusted out (expect to spend three or four iterations
in each of the adjust/relieve/test loops). The second time goes much
faster, and the third time (for me) was just one pass each.

Another side effect is that because the spoke forces are balanced (because
you plucked the spokes while choosing a spoke pair to tighten/loosen) the
wheel will stay in true MUCH longer than a machine-built wheel will stay
true. (machine-built wheels are never "relieved" until they hit the
road- which is why they usually go all potato-chip shaped within a few
hundred miles)

-Bill Yerazunis

The above information provided "AS-IS", no warranties implied, and do
not represent my employer in any way.
Crash's Extreme Baklava

This is real Greek baklava, just like Socrates used to make. Safety tip - leave out the hemlock juice.

Expected time to prepare: 40 minutes pastrywork, 90 minutes bake (of which you need 20 minutes of saucepan time to make the honey-lemon syrup), then three or four hours to cool.

Scoville rating: roughly 50 Scoville.

Calories per piece: infinite. Oh, well, almost infinite. Not recommended for the faint of heart or the high of cholesterol.

CAUTION: BAKLAVA is a VERY intense food. If you are unfamiliar with extreme cooking, you should consider having baklava prepared by an expert before attempting it on your own.

CAUTION: BAKLAVA HONEY SYRUP when cooking is a supersaturated solution, not boiling even though well above the nominal boiling point and can go into superheat boiling unexpectedly. If you stop stirring it, boiling appears to cease and the liquid appears quiescent. However, it's actually superheating. Abrupt superheat boiling can then be triggered by the addition of a tiny crystal of anything. When this superheat boiling begins, superheated syrup may be spattered and can cause second-degree burns. Wear protective clothing and don't stop stirring the syrup with a plastic or wooden spoon to prevent superheat events.

WARNING: BAKLAVA is an extremely unhealthy food. You shouldn't eat it. Not one bit. Because you'll like it sooooo much, you'll have to have another piece. And another. And...
Ingredients for 1 pan (dessert for 50 people )
It is recommended that you provide an alternate, less intense dessert for anyone not wishing to partake

** You need to make both parts **

Pastry Part
one pound of pre-prepared frozen fillo leaves (a.k.a.pastry leaves), thawed
3/4 lb of unsalted butter, melted
1.5 cups granulated sugar
1.5 cups raisins
1.5 cups walnuts, chopped to 5mm (1/4") size
one teaspoon cinnamon

Syrup
one cup of honey
two cups water
three cups granulated sugar
juice of one lemon
one teaspoon cinnamon

How to make it:

Start off by making the filling. Mix the 1.5 cups of sugar with the raisins and the nuts. Add a teaspoon of cinnamon.

Butter the inside of a medium-sized rectangular cake pan. Use solid butter, not the melted stuff.

Open the pastry leaves. The leaves are VERY thin sheets of dough, stacked up, then rolled up inside the plastic bag inside the box. The leaves dry out in like 30 seconds if not covered with a damp towel, so have the damp towel ready.

The leaves tend to stick together if given any excuse. Don't pinch them together. Sometimes a knife blade can separate the leaves if they're being uncooperative.

Separate out a leaf. Important: cover the unused leaves with the damp towel RIGHT AWAY!!! Having a helper is very useful here! Put the pastry leaf in the pan. (it will overhang a lot- that's OK. I usually set it in so one end is flush and there's a huge overhang off the other side.

Butter the part of the leaf in the pan. Use the melted butter and a pastry brush.

Fold the long overhang back into the pan. Butter the top.

If a leaf tears, don't panic. Put it in the pan as best you can, butter it down, and carry on. Likewise for stuck leaves; do the best you can, butter it, and carry on. You will _never_ notice if you have some stuck leaves (yes, I've tested it and you don't).

Repeat till you have put six or so leaves (twelve layers or so, since one leaf usually has top be folded onto itself once to fit the pan) of fillo leaves into the pan.

Make sure you butter at each opportunity.

Now use a big spoon and spoon out about a third of the nuts-n-raisins (plus sugar and cinnamon) onto the surface of the buttered pastry. You'll get about 50% coverage. That's fine.

Repeat with six or so more leaves; then another layer of nuts-n-raisins, then six more leaves, then the last of the nuts and raisins, then the last six leaves.

You should have now used up all the pastry leaves in your package, since they seem to put about 24 leaves in a one-pound box.

Set the oven to 325 degrees (yes, it's a low oven. You're going to heatsoak the pastry, not bake it fast.)

While the oven heats, get out a sharp knife and a straightedge. Cut the pastry from one corner to the other of the pan, all the way from the top to the bottom. Make sure the cut goes all the way to the bottom of the pan.

Now, cut parallel to the original diagonal cut, about an inch away, on each side of the diagonal cut. Make sure you go all the way to the bottom.

Repeat the diagonal and parallel cutting on the other pan diagonal. Yes, it's OK to use your fingers to keep the pastry from riding up on the knife blade. You now have a bunch of one-inch-or-so diamond-shaped pastries, all arranged neatly in a pan.

Put the pan into the oven, top rack. If it's an electric oven, put a "diffuser" on the rack below the pan. An old (single-thick) cookie sheet works well, but a sheet of aluminium foil a tad larger than the pastry pan is adequate. All you need to do is shield the bottom of the pastry pan from the direct radiant heat of the heating element.

Set a timer for 1 hour, 15 minutes.

Now, prepare the syrup. Mix the 3 cups sugar and 2 cups water in a large saucepan. Boil. Add the 1 cup honey. Watch out for superheat events- keep stirring! Use a wooden or plastic stirrer. Add the lemon and cinnamon- and be careful when you do, as this almost always causes some frothing.

Boil for fifteen minutes. Then remove from heat, cover, and put in a safe place to cool. Watch out, it's superheated and will cause a nasty second-degree burn if you spill it.

When the timer rings on the 1 hour 15 minutes, check the pastry. You want the top to be the color of perfectly cooked toast. If it's still too white, you can turn the heat up to 350 or so and give it another ten minutes. (yes, the pastry is supposed to be making those hissing, spitting, crackling sounds as it cooks)

When the color is what you want, remove the pan from the oven and IMMEDIATELY pour the honey-lemon syrup over the pastry. You will hear a buckling and roaring sound as the syrup goes into repeated vapor/liquid phase shifts; the metal pan may well buckle from the differential heating as the liquid reaches bottom. Don't let it scare you; it's supposed to do that.

Put the whole pan aside for at least two hours to cool and allow the syrup to adsorb into the pastry.

Cover with aluminium foil after an hour or so, if you want.

Serve when it's cool to the touch.

Baklava will keep several days without refrigeration, which is good because it doesn't taste nearly as good cold as it does at room temperature
Last night, for the Halloween trick-or-treating, I decided to "go for it" and play the Dotcom modular synthesizer *live* (I usually decorate for Halloween in the "mad scientist" theme, as that's what I do for a living anyway and I have plenty of lab coats and safety goggles.).

It's an article of faith that one does NOT play modular synthesizers in real time. Even something semi-modular, like an ARP 2600, is _almost_ never played in real time (Ever hear "Frankenstein" by Edgar Winter? That's an ARP 2600. But it took a roadie half an hour to preset the 2600 for the crazy solo, and another ten minutes afterward to make it "right again" afterwards.)

I went "true modular". No keyboard, just patching and knobbing, in real time. (no, my quad ribbon controller is only working if you test-clip it together with 9V batteries). I propped a Roland KC-60 (a small 40-watt keyboard amp/speaker) into the garage window, put up four colored LED strobes that I bought at K-mart, and ran the Dotcom in real time, just from the knobs and cables.

And- it worked! I channeled Edgar Winter and Tangerine Dream and Forbidden Planet and Rocky Horror and every bad SF movie soundtrack ever seen on the Creature Feature, and the trick-or-treaters loved it! I got responses like "Best on the street" and "You really kicked it up a notch." and "Wow. Totally UFO-ville".

One said "It makes the whole neighborhood more halloweeny." "Oh, should I turn it down?" "No, it's good this way."

And best of all, at the end, a parental unit even asked if it was "one of those synthesizers like ... uh...um..." and made plugging-and-unplugging motions. "Like on the cover of 'Switched-On Bach'", I asked innocently. "Yeah, like that!"

I grinned and smiled. No better reward possible.

---- Synthesizer Geeking Follows -----

Things learned:

You don't need a lot of oscillators. I used 2 Q-106 oscs and the Q-150 ladder filter, in 24dB mode as the main sound chain, with the ladder filter flicking in and out of resonance. I have a quad LFO from SSL (thanks Doug!) that I used to modulate filter frequency and resonance continuously, so even if I was at the door handing out candy, there was still "motion" in the sound. The resonance really added a lot to the pulse-wave
wailing from the Q-106's (which were usually tuned either an octave or an octave and a fifth apart); I really like the sound of a filter at the edge of resonance as the filter bends around the incoming signal.

I also used an Encore UEG to put a slow (60-second-plus) wail into the lower of the two audio oscillators. Yet more motion to prevent boredom. I used a Q-125 signal processor to play with gain and offset for the quad LFOs, and that was about it; I had a Q-171 quantizer in line early on, but I didn't like the effect, so I patched it out while other stuff was still playing and didn't go back. I tossed a Q-115 reverb into the mix near the end (as well as an SSL digital delay line) but it didn't do much for the sound.

IMHO, multiples are suboptimal. Get a pack of "twofers" (2:1 1/4 jack stereo splitters) instead; things like this. Be sure to get either mono-in to mono-out or stereo-to-stereo.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10X-Gold-2-way-headphone-splitter-1-4-stereo-jack-Lot-/250719228927?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a6007d3ff

These twofers are not super quality, but they're cheap (10 for $14). And they make it much faster to patch and avoid the "mult thicket" problem where you have 12 wires leading into a 1-MU block and no clue what any of them do. When the STG wavefolder comes in, I will probably pull my last mult module out and go
pure "twofer".

Surprisingly, you don't need a lot of _rack_ for performing live (for Halloween, at least!). I have a pair of P22 cases and I only used one of them for the whole performance.

If you ever get the chance to perform live, try it!

- Bill
Those of you who know me (more or less) know that I've been a fan of synthesizers for ... well, most of my life. Kraftwerk's AUTOBAHN, Edgar Winter's FRANKENSTEIN, Carlos' SWITCHED-ON BACH and CLOCKWORK ORANGE, Tonto's Expanding Headband; these are a few of my favorite things.

I did dabble in grad school with some smaller synthesizers, but I never had the time or the money or the space for one of those modular monsters that you saw on the cover of Switched-On Bach.

Until this year. I finally bought a modular synthesizer; used, half the slots empty, but fully functional. It's a "Synthesizers.com" (a.k.a. a "dotcom"), the same form factor as the classic Moog modulars, but even more modular (i.e. any module can go in any position; there's no "half-size row" nor any backpanel wiring other than the power squid, and since then I've added a module here, a module there... and now it's a little over-full.

It has big meaty 1/4" jacks and a crateful of 1/4" patchcords to connect up the various functional modules, and is covered in thick black naugahyde.



Never underestimate the aesthetics of a musical instrument. It should sound good, but it should also make one _want_ to play it.

Every function on this machine has a knob or a switch. No menu diving, trying to navigate via a little two-line LCD. The knobs glide, with just enough viscous damping that you can set it "just there". (and no, none of the knobs go up to 11. There _are_ knobs that go -5 to +5, so it's 11 but really not quite. Does that make sense?)

It's _wonderful_. I can just sit there for an hour or two and come up with a little musical ditty that nobody else has ever heard before.

Nobody? I'm pretty sure that nobody ever did. Here's why... I had a little drink and did a count of knobs, switches, and jacks of this machine.

I have:

  • 109 analog knobs (call them 0 to 10, for 11 discrete states)
  • 6 6-way switches
  • 11 3-way switches
  • 15 2-way switches
  • 91 input jacks
  • 71 output jacks

  • So, how many different combinations can this thing be set to (don't worry about whether or not whether a particular configuration actually makes a sound or not; no configuration is more than one cable change or knob twist from a combination that _does_ make a sound).

    Well, there are 109 knobs that go from 0 to 10; that's 11^91 settings right there (although there are probably at least 100 easily repeatable values, the sound change between each one may not be readily discernable. 11^91 is 5.84E94 possibilities.

    Then there are the switches. 6^6 * 3^11 * 2^15 = 2.7E14 combinations, just on the switches. (for this purpose, I'm ignoring the switches on the MIDI inputs; we're looking only at the sounds that the modular synth can make _on it's own_.)

    Finally, there is the patch cord system. There are 91 input jacks; each and every input jack can be fed from an output jack (all signals, be they audio or control, share the same voltage range and impedance (mis)match, and so are compatible to plug together. You can also leave a jack unfed (so there are 71 outputs, plus a hypothetical "no connection plug" meaning "plugged into nothing", for a total of 72 possible inputs to each input jack). That's 72 options, repeated 91 times or a total of 72^91, which is 1.04E169 options. (Yes, the concept of "multing" makes it a little more complicated, but the synth has two "mult" modules and I also have a box of "twofers" that piggyback two jacks into a single plug, so to a first approximation it really is a 72 -> 91 full crossbar interconnect.)

    Multiplying it all out, that's (very roughly) 5E94 * 3E14 * 1E169 ~= 1.5E278 possible sounds (many of which _sound_ like silence, but that's not our worry here).

    If I can do one of these sounds every second, then that's ~5E270 _years_ to hear them all.

    For comparison, the whole universe is only about 15E9 years old. At about E40 years, all protons are predicted to have decayed, and there won't _be_ any matter to build synthesizers out of. Even if every proton in the universe is somehow able to be made into a synthesizer, it would still not be enough to listen to every sound that the machine that fits on my kitchen table can make.

    So, very frankly, when I sit down and just "noodle around", it's highly unlikely that I'll hear anything that will ever, ever be heard again. There isn't the time enough- in a very literal sense.

    Zathrus was wrong. You _can_ run out of Time.
    > You'll have to forgive crash--he's doctrinaire about not using
    > software for which he cannot get the source code.

    Not absolutely. But a very, very strong preference.

    I will post my latest tale-o-woe to Dreamwidth eventually, but
    here's a summary: (with expansion from the original)

    1) A decade-plus ago, I threw Windows (and most proprietary
    software in general) out of my life. I was tired of chasing
    a continuously changing API (specifically, the Windows
    graphics API; we just didn't have enough people to keep up
    with Microsoft's updates, let alone actually make any _progress_.)

    Let's call this event the "Defenestration" - the "throwing out
    of a window", or in this case, throwing out Windows.

    2) My productivity increased about 5x. My stress level decreased.
    I was happy. I wrote open source, drank beer, and kissed girls.

    3) Now, fast forward a decade plus.... to 2011. I've gone from
    Red Hat 5.1 to Fedora 15. Life continues to be good.

    3a) Now, at work, I need to program this embedded processor. Uh-oh - embedded
    processor dev kit (specifically, PICkit2, for a PIC 16F887)
    runs only on Windows.

    3b) So, I procure Windows 7 laptop, new in box, via Corporate Purchasing
    and the IT department here. This is the exact same laptop as I bought for
    home, but at home I immediately overwrote with Fedora 15 Linux without
    ever booting into Windows. Since the laptop works great under
    Linux, I figured it ought to be at least usable for Windows
    embedded system development.

    {SPOILER - this is the part of the story where I should start drinking,
    but fail to. }

    3c) TWO WEEKS OF AGONY - Between missing drivers, preinstalled
    crapware and malware, the machine is unusable. You _cannot_
    drag a window in realtime. Menu clicks take tens of seconds
    to respond. (what manufacturer in their right mind
    pre-installs WildTangent? Acer! What software vendor in their
    right mind includes a rootkit that hangs the machine when you
    try to uninstall it? Trick question: both MacAfee _and_ Norton!
    I never even get the embedded dev kit to complete the install
    before the machine hung itself or self-rebooting without warning.

    3d) I call in Corporate IT on the problem. No joy. Call in the Windows
    Demi-God. His professional opinion: "Boy, this machine is BLEEPed
    up. What did you do to it?" "I unwrapped it and turned it on."
    "Did you go visit a porn site?" "I never even got it to connect
    to the network." "Boy oh boy this machine is BLEEPed up."

    3e) Finally drop back and punt: complete reinstall from IT's "pristine"
    W7 disk, then download the Acer-specific drivers. One. At. A.
    Time. Via. CDROM. Because _none_ of the network hardware devices
    etc. have native Windows 7 drivers (Linux has the drivers "out
    of the box", foolish me never even _considered_ that the drivers
    would be that rare). I mean, when Linux comes with the drivers
    already compiled in, why the HECK can't Microsoft (who gets first
    lookasee at everything PC-related) include those drivers as well?

    3f) After 8 days of work, the machine is finally stable. I install
    the embedded system dev kit, which I find out has a _just_ (in the
    last two days) released a new version (alpha release only) which has been
    open sourced, and at least in theory runs under Linux. Groans ensue.

    3g) 1.5 days later: embedded system programmed. Including the
    REALLY STUPID embedded 433 MHz RF data link by a 2nd company
    that Does Not Do What You Think It Does.

    Conclusion: After a decade of my absence, Windows has gotten _worse_,
    by about a factor of 2 or so. How do I get that number?

    Because back before Defenestration, my guess would be it would have taken
    a week to get a relatively easy embedded application running on a new board,
    including getting the dev kit and Windows itself of that era squared away,
    etc. But now it took _two_ weeks.

    NB: Just so you know I'm not totally anti-closed-source, I *do* run MacOS-
    but only as a gaming platform. It runs Steam just fine and most of the
    games I want to run (Team Fortress 2, Left 4 Dead, etc) run just fine on it.

    But I'm not bitter. I get a great story out of it.
    (true story follows, and yes, I was there, this is not third person
    "friend of a friend") story. And yes, I have corroborating witnesses.

    (edit: this was not Mitnick's first exploit into DEC. He apparently also
    got onto the RSTS/E dev system "Ark" in 1979, see the story in
    http://passwordresearch.com/stories/story47.html for details. And yes,
    I know the Anton of that story and he knows me, but this story is
    entirely orthogonal to that story)

    Back in the Old Days (summer of 1986, to be precise), I was a fledgling
    programmer/hacker at DEC in Hudson, Massachusetts. DEC documentation
    used the example name NODE for the name of a computer, and USER for the
    name of a user (yes, all caps), and of course, USER had the password of
    PASSWORD. So, the standard example email address was like this (note
    that this was before Internet and so no "@" sign):

    To: NODE::USER

    ... and a certain young engineer (NOT ME! But someone I worked with...
    initials were /redacted/ and he rode a BMW motorcycle...) thought it would be
    cool to have a DEC-internal machine named NODE, with a user named
    USER, to see what email came in on it from the noobs who read the
    documentation literally.

    We saw some interesting stuff come in for NODE::USER. Trivia. Jokes.
    The occasional lurid hookup booty-call. All good fun; we had a
    DEC-internal mailing list you could subscribe to if you wanted to see
    the traffic.

    But- that meant that there was a user named USER, on node NODE. And
    USER's account had to have a password. Which was, of course, PASSWORD,
    just like the documentation used.

    The owner of NODE did the "right things". Among them, it was a VMS
    machine (i.e. quite good security at the time), USER didn't have any
    privs at all, was in it's own group, and besides, the machine was on the
    internal network at DEC, where in theory at least everyone was trusted.

    In theory at least....

    When Mitnick (yeah, *that* Kevin Mitnick) broke into DEC ISTG and ZKO
    the first time (this was summer of 1986, mind you, way way before
    Shimomura et al), he did it by social-engineering (we think) a phone
    number in the modem bank (remember modem banks?). That got him into
    the LAT (the terminal server), with a social-engineered password.

    From there, he tried NODE::USER, password PASSWORD, and sure enough, he
    was in.

    NODE's owner noticed something was up- that there was activity when
    there ought to be none. So we started watching- but we were slow off
    the starting gate. It caused considerable consternation when this
    unknown visitor continued to social-engineer out of NODE:: and up into ZKO.

    In fact, we didn't even know his name - Mitnick wasn't famous then.
    (it turns out that one person working in the group _did_ know him
    socially- and that was the "social engineering entry point).

    We just referred to him as "Our Friend"; that was as good a codename
    as any; we specifically avoided any online discussion of the goings-on
    because we didn't know what Our Friend might be reading. Everything
    was face-to-face communication or handwritten notes, kept in folders
    in locked desk drawers, and shared only with those with a need to know.

    We realized Our Friend was no ordinary "leave nothing but footprints, take
    nothing but pictures" kind of tourist, and I built some special hardware
    (thank you Radio Shack Marlboro for proto-board and the rack of cheap
    chips on blue cards in the back of the store, and a certain state judge
    for issuing a wiretap warrant !).

    We didn't know how good Our Friend really was at hacking, and
    that's why we built the special-purpose hardware - he *might* have already
    compromised the LAT terminal server and thus we couldn't trust that,
    we had to build something that was, from his end of the telephone wire,
    undetectable.

    From then on, we watched and logged every move Mitnick made. Fortunately,
    his tradecraft was as bad as his social engineering was good (he
    never even changed the modem line number he was dialing in on! ).

    We got the evidence.

    Mitnick went to jail for a year.

    Clearly, that was not enough. His tradecraft improved slightly but his
    sense of ethics remained as weak as ever.

    He did mung on a few things, including some mission critical software.
    His coding style wasn't great. But since we never could be sure he
    didn't have another back door into the systems, we had to wait till
    he got put in jail before we could start a full sweep of everything,
    and then that's exactly what we did. Full examination of every line
    of code; it took the group I was in basically 100 man-months to do.
    Not cheap, but I take some comfort that he spent about the same number
    of man-months in jail.

    Anyway, I've not had any dealings with him since '86, and like it just
    fine that way.

    And THAT, children, is why you should be careful on the Internet...
    Those of you who know me know I've been an electronic music fiend for at least forty years, maybe longer; I *love* classical and classic rock, but my real "aha" moment was Wendy Carlos' "Funeral for Queen Mary". You probably know it as the "Theme Music from A Clockwork Orange". What you probably don't know is that the piece was _originally_ written by Henry Purcell, in 1695. And he didn't have Robert Moog to help him.

    I'd never actually learned a musical instrument that didn't have semiconductors as the central part of how they functioned. I knew that at least in theory music does not require electronics, but I'd never actually _personally_ considered attempting music without it.

    This has now been remedied.

    I am now the proud possessor of the cheapest banjitar sold by Guitar Center. And I'm trying to learn how to play it.

    A "banjitar", you ask? What the heck is that?

    A banjitar is the unholy offspring of an acoustic guitar (that is, a six-string tuning head and fretboard),
    with a resonator banjo (that is, a cylindrical resonator with annular forward-facing bass-reflex porting, fronted by a genuine REMO 11" drumhead). It is incredibly loud, improbably obnoxous, and the closest thing you will ever see to an acoustic weapon of mass destruction. With over two octaves of range just on the open strings, no tune is beyond attempting, and with an inexperienced operator, no catastrophe is beyond possibility.

    Like the accordion, the banjitar speaks of poor career choices; like the bagpipe, it has an aura of swamp-borne evil. To these, the banjitar adds the patina of first-cousin marriages and a certain movie starring Burt Reynolds (also directed by John Boorman, who also directed ZARDOZ).

    Some argue that a banjitar should be tuned as a guitar. Others argue that it should be tuned like a banjo on the first four strings, and then have the bottom two echo the lower two banjo strings but an octave lower yet. Others argue that it should not be tuned at all, but merely staked through the drumhead, severed at the neck, burned, and buried under a garden of garlic.

    Even banjitar adherents have to admit a few ... issues. See:

    http://www.woodpecker.com/writing/articles/6stringpuzzle.html

    for just a sampling.

    Oh- and if you ever decide to try a banjitar, or the equivalent, here's what I found on mine. Realize that this is the cheapest banjitar at Guitar Center.

    1) Tuned? Yeah, it's tuned, somewhere in the key of L. Maybe M. The open strings sounded great though.
    The reason for this crazy tuning .... see the bridge.

    2) Bridge? Yep. Right there (mispositioned by about 1/4", which makes an octave about 13 semitones; easily fixed if you don't mind taking all the tension off the strings..)

    3) The drumhead bolts were put on by a chimpanzee. Some were wrench-tight; some were finger-tight, and some were rattling-loose. Oh- and we'll toss an extra drumhead bolt into the resonator where it can rattle around! I am not making this up. If you buy one of these banjitars, and are missing one of the nuts, I have it.

    4) The strap loops are guaranteed to scratch the finish if you use them, and to rattle annoyingly if you don't. Now, having strap loops on anything with a banjo lower end is itself kind of strange, as there are 24 conveniently placed tensioning bolts that you can attach the strap to.

    5) The coordinator rod (the compression element that transfers the axial pressure from the head to the tailpiece, taking this pressure off the drum cylinder so that cylinder doesn't collapse) was there. So were the nuts and washers. Too bad they didn't bother to tighten the nuts at all- they were rattling-loose.

    6) To make up for not tightening the coordinator rod, they wrenched the tailpiece flap adjuster bolt
    down as tight as pliers could make it.

    7) It's metric. 6mm bolts. Which means that the standard banjo wrench (a 1/4") will just spin around.

    Does it work? Yes.

    Does it need serious attention before usage? Definitely. Don't consider this to be a finished banjitar. What you get is a banjitar kit, preassembled into roughly the actual positions for your bolt-tightening convenience.

    Tuning is critical. You have to hit it within about four cents; an electronic tuner is a necessity. But once you _do_ hit it, you can feel the whole instrument come alive and start to sound amazingly beautiful. But be off by more than a smidge, and BLEAHHHH!!!

    Do I like it? YEAH! This is the first musical instrument I've ever had that I've spent more time wrenching on than actually playing. And it's fun.
    (this was written as a reply to someone who asked me the question of "If there is no god, then where did the universe come from", and it came out pretty well, so I'm preserving it forevermore here.

    No problem.

    First off, I am a scientist but not a specialist in the particular field you want (you want a cosmologist, I'm not one of those). So, I'm going to make some very simplifying assumptions that will not be exactly right but ignore those please.

    Second thing: I'd suggest reading up on all of this in Wikipedia; it's free.

    But here's a simple way to think about it. You've heard of the law of large numbers, right? That things will average out. That's the whole basis of thermodynamics - that things "run down", hot things cool off, cold things warm up, friction drags on everything.

    For example, if you put a soccer ball on the floor, it stays there. That's because the number of molecules of air hitting it on the left average out to be the same number as the number of molecules of air hitting it on the right. So, nothing seems to happen.

    But start shrinking the soccer ball. About the time it gets to be the size of a tiny grain of dust, you notice the dust-grain-sized soccer ball starts to quiver a little now and then. That's because it's small enough that so few air molecules hit it every second that the law of large numbers starts to break down- occasionally, enough more hit it on the right (or on the left) that the whole dust grain moves. Is that "free energy"? Sort-of... but there's reasons why it's hard to harness it, but that's a whole 'nother topic.

    Now make the dust smaller yet... microscopic in size, the size of a bacterium. You won't be able to watch it easily now, because it is in _continuous_ motion. (this is called Brownian motion, after the Scottish Botanist who described it best (although Lucretius, in 60 BC described it as well). This is also why the sky is blue, because the dust way up in the air that scatters the blue light preferentially would fall down if it weren't for Brownian motion.

    Now make the particle smaller yet- the size of an atom- and you find that the law of large numbers has completely broken down. Atoms in air are jumping wildly about continuously.

    Crazy? Yes- but it gets worse. Look smaller than an atom. At the subatomic scale, the math of how electrons and protons and light waves move doesn't work out correctly unless you postulate things called "vacuum fluctuations".

    Essentially, a vacuum fluctuation is when the Universe "borrows" energy to make a pair of particles (say, an electron and a positron, the positron being antimatter) that will exist for only a tiny time period, fly around a little bit, and then rejoin themselves together. The positron is antimatter, so it and the electron annihilate each other leaving two gamma rays- but instead of the gamma rays going out into the rest of the universe, the Universe steals them back and uses that to pay back the energy it borrowed.

    These tiny invisible pairs of particles happen to be flashing in and out of existence all of the time, all around you- in fact, inside you too.

    So, these vacuum fluctuations are occurring, creating (for a tiny amount of time) matter and energy out of _nothing_. We can actually observe this occurring in the lab (for example, the Casimir effect - particles going faster than the speed of light under very limited conditions).

    Now, take another step- assume that you are looking at not just a very small particle, but _nothing_. Nothing at all exists.

    Space is utterly empty, with no atoms or light whatsoever. Yet, if the field equations are to be satisfied, vacuum fluctuations _must_ exist. And the first one that comes along- WHAM - total system instability. A random but huge amount of matter/energy blossoms forth, literally from nothing. And there's nothing in the math that says it can't happen if you have _nothing_ to damp the vacuum fluctuations out.

    Worse - it MUST happen, because the total emptyness is itself unstable and the first vacuum fluctuation that happens (and it will, the uncertainty principle applies) triggers the detonation- the Big Bang.

    It's like the paradox of coin flips - flip a billion coins, and pretty much you'll have half heads and half tails, result = 0.5.
    That's the law of large numbers; things average out even though there is no "memory" in the coins themselves.
    But if you flip ONE coin, the chance that it'll give a 0.5 result - that is, stay on edge - is pretty close to zero.  When
    you have small numbers, the law of large numbers fails completely, and in completely empty space, there is no
    large numbers of anything.

    So yes, when the law of large numbers fails, you _can_ create something from nothing. Worse- the "you" is unnecessary; SOMETHING will be created, by itself. There is no need to take action to "create"- the creation is automatic... and _prevention_ of the creation is impossible!

    And that is how I think the Universe happened.

    I hope that helps...
    One of my projects is playing around with a Panasonic CF-18 Toughbook that I picked up for pocket change at DEFCON. (yes, the first thing I did was open the case and check for any extra hardware; the second thing was to replace the hard drive.)

    The CF-18 is a little old (1.1 GHz Centrino), and had only 512 MB of memory, so the second order of business is to max out memory. Micro Center in Cambridge MA has 1 gig sticks of Crucial (nee Micron) DDR2 memory to fit for $44. Fine. Put it in, it POSTs, great. But the machine is going up and down far more often than it should with Linux (usually Linux stays up till you tell it to go down). Then a spell of hot weather hits, and the machine is unstable by the hour. (yes, I'm using it outside on the deck, in 95 degF weather. It's a _toughbook_. You're supposed to be able to use it in the _rain_.)

    Out comes the Katana USB (one of the better white-hat USB loads around) and Memtest86+ shows that the new memory is failing on a few locations. Ouch. Back to Micro Center and exchange it for another stick of Crucial / Micron memory. Back home to put the new stick in... and _nothing_ . The machine won't even POST. Grumble. This is the part of the story when I should drink, but I don't.

    The next day I walk to Micro Center with the laptop in my bag, and tell my story of sadness to the fellow at the returns counter. He commiserates, and allows an exchange for a different brand of memory (ADATA brand, five bucks more than Crucial/Micron). He even points out a nice place where I can swap the memory in (an unused counter in the Tech Services area). I install the memory, and start Memtest86+ running while I browse. Two passes later, no errors, so I thank the clerk heartily and hike on out to work.

    Note that this gives my "upping the memory" record of 2.5 for 5 this yar (of 5 memory sticks purchased, 2 work great, 1 was flaky under high temp, and 2 would not even allow the machine
    to pass power-on-self-test). This is NOT good, memory manufacturers!

    Lessons learned:

    1) Just because it's a good name, does not mean that the memory is good.
    2) Until you test the memory hard, assume it's flaky at best.
    Testing entry. Nothing to see here.

    Move along, move along.
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